Pictures from the Camino

Santiago de Compostela

Today Sue and Pat left in the wee hours of the morning leaving me to Santiago. A very lazy day wandering through the streets of the old city. I am able to find my way around rather well. Found a short cut to the Catherdral from my hotel the first day instead of going around through the maze. My room is about 800 meters from the Cathedral widing through the city streets and stairs up to the Praza. There are multiple Prazas with various churches, museums, paradors, etc. It is very beautiful. I am grateful that I have a good sense of direction. Poor Pat kept getting lost when out by herself...caught in the maze of streets.

It has been raining torrentially today and a forecast of same for the next five days. I am very grateful we only had gentle rain on and off for the days I walked. In fact our last day walking into Santiago was sunny. Several times today I just sat it out because it was just too much to wander around in even with my poncho.

Visited Jimmy again today. Everytime I enter the Cathedral I see something new. Found my way back to the Crepe Cafe to have a wonderful meal of salad and asparagus crepe with a glass of the local Alberria ( vinho blanco). It is different everytime I have it but kind of like a Chenin Blanc...crisp and refreshing...and goes well with the seafood of this region and for a late lunch. Lunch is between 2:30 and 4:00 p.m. Many things close down during this time and begin opening up again after 5:00 pm. Restaurants do not open for dinner until 9:00 p.m. It really is not that strange since it does not get dark here until 10:00 p.m.

Discovered the pleasure of a cup of cafe con chocolate. It is like drinking liquid chocolate. It is absolutely wonderful. Last night after a couple of bottles of vinho tinto (Riberia ), crusty bread, thinly sliced serrano ham (Jamon), and olives. We ventured out in search of a highly recommended tapas restaurant at about 11:00 pm. We did not find the recommended place but found another that fared just as well. Met a german named Joachim (Joey)...he liked it that I was looking for Jimmy. He was sad that he was leaving tomorrow as well. He had walked the additional 100 km to Finistre and back. He said now we go home. He just did not know how he could share much with anyone at home. There was just so much and yet it was only walking every day for 6 weeks. The mere physicality of the walk and what with that and the daily encounters that were ordinary and extraordinary where do you begin. I know Sue and Pat were experiencing a little of that.

It is interesting for me because every day many things happened...ordinary and extraordinary. It is hard to put into words. I do feel grateful and blessed for this experience. I would have liked to have walked another 10 days or so because my 5 days of walking was not enough time. I did get to experience some of the physical difficulties re foot problems, blisters, and foot fatigue, etc., catching a cold. I think more time would have given me the opportunity to have created some relationships along the way. I just felt like I had just gotten into my own rythmn and then we were here.

I will now have another day by myself to attempt to experience more and adsorb what I am seeing and doing. Because I do not speak the language it is very challenging. Lots of sign language and smiling. If I let myself listen to the entire thing that is being said to me, I can sort of get the gist. It gets complicated when they throw Gallega into the conversation. So I am in a semi-state of silence due to the communication thing. Not so bad actually. It forces me to observe more closely.

Adios for now. Jimmy is still everywhere.

I Found Jimmy

We arrived in Santiago on Tuesday, May 20th. It was a day that I was very concerned the night before as to whether I was going to be able to walk the 22km into Santiago. I awoke refreshed and recharged and ready to go. When we arrived in Arzua which is a very large noisy city, I was almost hysterically exhausted. I am very glad I could do it to Santiago. I got to walk in with everyone. We ran into Sue and Pat´s French friends out in the middle of no where on the trail...Henri, JeanPaul, and DJ. I had been hearing about them since I arrived. They were a total hoot. Walked several kms with both and got to hear about their experiences on the Camino. We walked to Monte Gosso (means mountain of joy) together. This is where the pilgrims can first see the cathedral even though still 6 km away. Even though we had an amazing sunny day (no rain) we could not see because of tall buildings in the distance. We stopped for toe repair for Sue and badly needed potato chips and a cold beer. Henri´s wife and her friend met the guys with a welcomed picnic lunch. They had not seen each other for 6 weeks. We took lots of pictures and agreed to see each other at the cathedral at mass the following day.

We walked through the Monte Gosso compound (albergue) that houses 800 pilgrims. We were really glad we were not staying there. On into Santiago...a very large city. We have a lovely place to stay...the Hostal Alameda which in the old part of town approx 800 meters from the Cathedral. There are multiple praza´s (plazas) on differrenct levels with various churches and then the main cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. We immediately went to the pilgrims´office to have our stamped passbook reviewed and then issued the compostela certificate for completing the Camino. I walked from Ruetlan which was approx. 130 km. Sue and Pat walked from St Jean Pied to Port (sp?) which is in France on the other side of Spanish border approx. 760 km. There passport was not examined that closely. Mine on the other hand (due to shortness) was closely examined for appropriate distances and stamps. A lot of people start in Sarria which is the closest you can walk to receive the compostela approx. 100 km.

When issuing the compostela they write down where you are from, where you began the walk, how old you are, and they write your name in Latin on the compostela. The following day the priest during the mass at the cathedral announces how many people from each country has arrived to Santiago the day before and then announces how many people walked from each city on the Camino. It is kind of fun to hear how many from the United States (not very many) and how many from where you started on the Camino.

The Cathedral is massive. I have been there four times since my arrival and each time I am more able to take in what is there. There is just so much art, sculptures, etc. It is overwhelming and you cannot take it in all at once. So I go back and find more things each time. My first day in the Cathedral I was able to walk in and hug the statue of St James that is over his tomb. You walk in from the back of the statue and give him a hug and rest your forehead on the back of his head and give thanks. Mine was a big thank you for being able to come on this trip.

There is still much to post about my experiences each day. Everyday had amazing experiences whether just walking with people from other countries with a common goal to get to Santiago, to having a local priest take you through his little church and share with you the meaning of all the figures on the alter and giving you a pilgrim´s blessing and then grabbing my hand when I was leaving the church and looking me in the eyes and wishing me Bien Camino, or sitting at a roadside bar with our feet up and boots off doing foot repair and partaking in the local vinho tinto, or being interviewed and videotaped by National Geographic with the young man walking backwards uphill carrying his videocamera while we continued to walk and talk, or getting water for my water bottle at the local fountain in Melide and accidentally spraying soaking an elderly woman with my attempts at getting water and she laughed as we were wiping her off and telling us goodnaturedly it just made her more beautiful, or the children´s concert in Melide in the plaza near the church, or Gallegan protesters banging drums and blowing whistles in the Praza in front of the Cathedral during mass.

I have found Jimmy in many places.

I will post my pictures soon.

Portomarin to Comixa

Today we climbed out of Portomarin crossed the river up onto the river bluffs up to the ridgetops to Hospital and Sierra Ligonde all the way to Palas de Rei for 26.5 km. At Palas de Rei we caught a cab to Comixa where we are staying at a Casa Rural. We have all decided we are completely over staying at albergues putting up with crazy pushy people and sharing one bathroom with 10 other people. See prior posting re Sarria re bad pilgrims and Sue' blog re Sarria albergue experience. Last night in Portomarin we went to two places and they were full so we ended up at a hostal with one large room three beds and our own bathroom with a tub.

Todays walk started at 8:30 am and we arrived in Comixa at 6:00 pm. It was a lot of walking again through very lush green ridge country. A steady all day climb from 620m up to the high point of 1250m in elevation. It rained most of the day and was cold enough in the spot that we could see are breath and my body heat kept fogging my glasses.

We stopped in Portos for about an hour for a glass of wine which turned into a bottle of wine. We got to experience some local color. At about 4:00 pm in came six Galacian cowboys in their full regalia...cowboy hats, riding crops, and high boots with spurs. Of course we were in good spirits and wanted to take pictures and theu were in good spirits as well and mugged for us for pictures and a couple of them began singing at the bar. Pat got up and was encouraging them all to pose at the bar and our giggling got them all going. At one point, Pat jokingly asked them where are your horses and one said outside and we giggled some more like sure they are. As we were getting ready to leave, we went outside and discovered six beautiful horses tied up around the front of the bar. We could not believe it! They had on beautiful halter decorations and saddle...a couple of dapple grays. We were out front putting on our rain ponchos and they all came and mounted their horses and headed up the road with wave. We got to experience Gallega cowboys bar hopping on a Sunday afternoon. Again, Pat was in the forefront encouraging the situation.

It was a badly needed break for us during the day. Particularly me. I thought I had effectively dealt with my big blister on my heel by popping it, putting second skin on it, covering it with moleskin and then taping my entire heel. It is really depressing to develop a nasty blister when you are only carrying a light day packe. The entire two months that walked almost everday with a twenty pack I never developed a blister like this. Once one thing is taken care of, another thing occurs. About four hours into today's walk my middle toe that I had banged up pretty good during training for this trip due to wearing to short of boots for hill work, began to lift off my toe. It is like I could not believe it was happening. I am losing my toenail. I stopped and taped it down so it would not continue to catch on my sock and get ripped off before its time.

The stop at the Gallega cowboy bar was to give my feet a well need rest. We had already walked about 7 hours. My feet were feeling very hammered. Then Sue pulled the miracle drug called Voltaran out. It is like a ibuprophen in cream form. You rub it on your feet and within 10 minutes my feet quit aching and felt normal. I was able to walk another 6 km to Palas de Rei. When we got there, I said I cannot walk one more step.

Tonite we stayed at a beautiful casa rural. The owner is this gregarious woman who took great care of us. We had delicious chicken noodle soup, crusty bread, a beef dish tender short ribs without the bone that melted your mouth with crispy fries, a bottle of Galacian red wine, flan with chocolate drizzled on it and a tiny shot glass of an herb appertiv that has chamomile and rosemary in that is from this area called orujo. The owner then arranged for our next place we will stay in Rua tomorrow night. Ordered us to go to bed and get rested and said we must have breakfast before we leave. She could see that we were completely exhausted and being the good host she took care of us.

Tomorrow we have a lot of ground to cover...30 km. Hopefully my feet will be up for it. We have to be in Santiago on Tuesday the 21st to meet up with friends. Don't worry Ron, Sue promises she will make the arrangements for me to be medivacted back to US once the doctors think I will be ready to travel.

Still finding Jimmy everywhere.
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Sarria to Portomarin

Today we walked from Sarria to Portomarin. We made arrangements again to have our packs brought forward. We travelled light with water, some food for lunch, our cameras and rain ponchos and rain pants. We divided everthing into two day packs. The day began with us having cafe con leches and toast at a bar down the street. This is where we dropped off our mochilas (packs).

We headed out of Sarria and dropped into this beautiful green lush river valley. Following a fast moving stream on a dirt pathway approx 8 feet wide that would either be lined on either side of the path with slate stone walls approx 4 ft tall and covered with moss and ferns or the path would be lined on either side with chestnut trees. The terrain went up and down through little valleys of farm pasture land criss-crossed with stone fences or lush lightly wooded areas. They raise dairy cows here. In fact we went through an area that is very famous for their cheese. For my Wisconsin friends, the terrain was very similar to walking through the Byrds Creek area up and over to Excelsior over and up to Mt Zion and down into Gays Mills in the Springtime. Very green.

Did I mention cows and rain? It began to rain when leaving Sarria and we walked for several hours in a steady gentle rain. It was raining hard enough that we had to where our ponchos and rain pants. I really needed windshield wipers and defogger for my glasses. The paths went up and down and became very muddy and mixed in with cow shit. Some areas were steep enough that there were streams down the path about 3-4 inches deep with water flowing and we would have to rock hop going up long stretches of hills. In fact one hill had slabs of slate rock in the middle of the path which awkwardly spaced a little more than a long stride and you had to be careful because they were slippery and water ankle deep. Did I mention cow shit and mud? Some places it was challenging to manuver because it was like trying to traipse through a spring thawed barnyard. It brought up childhood memories of getting stuck at age 5 in the barnyard in calf deep mire and not being able to get out without leaving my boots behind in the muck and making it to a fence to sit and contemplate my lonely poopy stuck boots and how I was going to retrieve those without involving my father.

Pat has decided she is over cows and the smell of manure.

It was an amazing walk today. We walked from 8:00 am to 4:00 pm with an hour rest stop for lunch. There was little cafe out in the middle no where with incredible views. We had the best lunch ever. We had a bowl of lentils, crusty bread, titty cheese (cheese shaped like a tit), salami, jamon with melon (paper thin sliced serrano ham with green melon, and of course, a bottle of red wine. As we sat there, the sun came out and we stripped off our rain gear and basked in its warm. We were sitting under a large umbrella. Rain clouds blew in and it began to rain again. Within the hour it had stopped. We experienced three different rain showers throughout the day.

We dropped down into another river valley and crossed a large river and climbed up into the town of Portomarin which has a large cathedral. Sunny when we arrived but then another rain storm blew in within minutes. This area, Galacia, averages rain 1 out of 4 days throughout the year. Between the rain and cow poop, it is very green. Very similar weather like Ireland. In fact this area is Celtic and has their own language of Gallega rather than Spanish. It is like a combination of Spanish and Portugese.

I don't know what I would have done without Pat and Sue who do very well with Spanish and with their month long experience on the Camino. Plus it is really a lot of fun seeing them good naturedly banter and flirt with the various barkeepers along the way. Bars serve breakfasts along with being open for the locals to begin their daily victuals of drinking aquaconvit (sp?) and smoking cigarettes. They are generally old men in berets.

I was initiated today with a big fat blister on my right heel two hours into the walk. Sat down on the side of the path to administer to my feet. People stopped to offer tape, compeed, moleskin and advice. Caring for your feet is a very serious matter on the Camino. Today we walked 22.5 km.

Tomorrow we hike up to Palais de Reis and on to another little town beyond for approx 26 km. Pat and Sue have been very kind and supportive about not carrying our heavy packs each day but shipping them forward. Today my feet were ready to be done. The rest of my body was still willing but your feet just get tired. When we picked up our packs and I placed it on my back my feet went aggghh with the extra weight sinking into my arches and the balls of my feet. So I am very grateful to not have the weight in exchange to have the ability to cover some distances.

I have been running into Jimmy everwhere.
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We arrived in Sarria. Today walked from Ruetalan. Uphill all the way...a 600m increase in elevation. We made arrangements for packs to be hauled to O'ceibero, the top of the hill at 1300m. It was beautiful climbing thru a river valley along a river up to along a ridgeline. Kept looking back and could not believe where we came from down below. It was really great not to have to carry my pack for this steep climb. We only walked about 15km today. The girls were breaking me for tomorrow when we walk to Portomarin which about 22km or we may walk a little farther if we are up for it.

Pat went to bed early tonite. Sue and I wondered down to a bar to discuss with owner who offers a service to carry our packs to Portomarin. We think we could really cover some miles that way with us all carrying little napsacks.

Today after we arrived in O'ceibero we took a taxi to Sarria because it was 22km of downhill on a very busy steep and curvy road. Plus we had to make up some time due to my delayed arrival. There may be a couple more times we will do that so that we can finish time.

I am now sitting on my top bunk after a wonderful dinner of paella (this region is known for it's seafood). We are in a beautiful pensione dorm room that sleeps 12 people. This is a beautiful place. There was a little spat between two women about whether we should be allowed to bring our boots into the room. They went on for several minutes. I may think twice next time about all women's room. They just bickered and tried to pull other people into. I just left for awile until everything calmed down.

Enough for now...lots of laughing here and hopefully more come. Did I mention lots of churches?

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Rerouting the Camino California Style

I left Glen Ellen in the wee hours of the morning (4:15 a.m.) Flew out of San Franciso via Dulles (Washington D.C.) At Dulles, I ran into a major snag. The plane was supposed leave at 9:52 p.m. heading to London. They boarded us promptly and then promptly had us sitting in the gate in the plane for over 2 hours. Initially it was not that bad because I had a 1st class seat and was repeatedly asked "Ms. Ashmore would you like...a cocktail, a glass of water, what do you want for your main entre, are you comfortable, do you need another pillow, may I show you how to recline your chair, how to turn on the video" Very accomodating. I think I know why people pay the big bucks for 1st class. I it probably the only time in your life that you really getted treated like royalty.

Then it went down hill from here. The Captain announced that there was a problem with the radar antennae but the crew was working on it and should have it fixed in about a half hour. Then another half hour passed. Then another. The Captain then announced that there was just one more little small wire that needed to be replaced, but the crew would need to turn the plane off...reboot it so to speak. Could we all just get up off the plane for 5 minutes...don't worry leave your belongings...just going to have you step out into the gate area...don't go anywhere. Three and half hours later (2:20 a.m.) they announce they cannot fix it. Cancelling the flight. Gave us hotel vouchers and said we don't get to fly out until the following day at 6:26 p.m. By that time it is already 4:30 a.m. on Tuesday morning. Get a taxi (with voucher) to Hilton $450/night suite. I am thinking wow this is cool considering I just missed my connecting flight to Spain. Call Iberia at 5:00 a.m. help!!! They say not there problem United's problem. You have just lost your entire itininery including confirmed return flight from Spain. I have to buy another ticket to Spain, but I don't get to fly out of London when I finally arrive, I have to wait a day. So now I am down two days into my trip and my friends are waiting for me.

So Looking For Jimmy included a side trip into London for the day. Turned out to be an OK day. Took the Picadilly Line from Heathrow into London. Hopped on the Hop On and Off Buse and took a three hour ride through London. Saw the London Bridge, Westminster Abbey and Chapel, Parliment, Buckingham Palace, Traflagar Square, and lots and lots of really old churches, and the Thames River, where people got hung and where they got thrown into dungeons. Found my way around by bus and the underground.

Tomorrow I am off again in the wee hours of the morn to Spain. Arrive in Madrid then plane to Santiago, drop off my extra stuff at the hotel in Santiago, catch a bus to Ponferrada, then a taxi to Villafranca and then another taxi up the hill to catch to wherever Sue and Pat are (maybe Ruitelan) and then.....ta daaa...trumpet sounds...maybe I actually get to carry my pack on the Camino instead through multiple airports.

I tell you, I think it is easier to come into the United States illegally than it is to get flight out of the United States legally. Met wonderful people through this experience. Londoners are very friendly and helpful. Lookingforjimmy signing off in London...ohhh jimmy mack when are you coming back.

Leaving on a jet plane

I am leaving early in the a.m. via London and Madrid to Santiago. There I am going to meet up with my friends, Suzanne and Pat, who have been walking the Camino for over a month now. They took a side trip walking from Santiago to Finnestre which is out to the Atlantic coast. We will meet up in Santiago and take a train to Ponferrada to begin the last leg into completing the Camino.

In Training for Jimmy

I have been walking through some beautiful scenery this week. Here is a picture of the meadow up in Annadel blooming and me in training with my 20 lb pack plus water.

Another Day of Training and Preparing for Jimmy

Yesterday found a wonderful trail up from Spring Lake and over to Annadel and back around to Spring Lake. Some great hill work. Did not wear the pack yesterday and felt amazingly strong. I practically ran up the trail, came back around, dropped down and did the loop around Spring Lake and could have done all over again. What a change after daily walking for a month! Today, on the other hand, did the hill work with my 20 lb. pack and it was a work out sucking air and sweating like a pig. I did not want to do it a second time today. I am really starting to feel strong though. Tomorrow I am going to go for some hill work and some miles with the pack on. Got to start adding more miles, and miles, and miles. It just takes so much time. It is very difficult to fit all of my other duties into the day around this walking regime. I really want to be ready for this trip...to take off walking when I arrive. I will have such little time relatively speaking to get into the groove. I am present when I walk.

History of Looking for Jimmy

I have been wanting to walk the Camino de Santiago since my friend, Suzanne, and step-daughter, Georgia, walked it 5 years ago. For those of you who do not know, this is an ancient pilgrimage of St. James that goes across the northern part of Spain. It starts just over the border in France at St. Jean de Porte, up over the Pyrenees, crosses into Spain in the Basque country, crosses across the top of Spain to Galicia to the Atlantic coast. Approximately 500 miles. My friends, Suzanne and Pat, already left for Spain and they are now into their third day of walking. I will join them towards the end in mid-May, where I will be walking through Galacia starting in Ponferrada and walk approx. 130 miles to Santiago de Compostela. For some this is a religious pilgrimage. For myself, I am seeking some quiet time for reflection and a good walk. And maybe along the way, I will see Jimmy.

In Training for Jimmy

I am trying to figure out how many miles I have been actually walking each day. I am now walking from my home and added a hike around the regional lake to the rest of my hike. I thought I was up to about 6+ miles on this hike. Purchased a pedometer and could not get it to register beyond 2.5 miles...so that is definitely not right. Does not match up with my driving calculations on some of the walk where I could drive in the car. So will try one more time tomorrow to figure out with pedometer. I discovered google has a pedometer that can help figure out miles, but still do not think it is accurate. I would just like to know how much I am walking so I can get a sense of my abilities ie. how far I can walk before my feet start killing me or extreme fatigue sets in. I would like to get some perspective re conditioning. So however far am walking...estimate 5-6 miles, I am doing it with my pack loaded at 20 lbs. It is really beautiful right now here in Northern California. Very green and lupine are blooming. Perfect walking temperature about 60 degrees. Besides the technical difficulties, I am enjoying the walk.

This is a test

I see that folks were trying to post but it was not allowed. So here I am in my full sweaty glory this a.m. after walking my 5 mile jaunt. Shoes and pack feel great. Will do another 5 miles this afternoon. HeeHaa!

Kind of like where's Waldo!

He's everywhere and nowhere....ohhh jimmy mack when are you coming back?